Feb222012

Introducing Fido to Baby

Bringing baby home is an exciting and happy occassion, but if you have a dog it can also be a stressful and anxious time for some new parents and for the unprepared dog. When a new mom or dad is holding their precious little bundle, suddenly in front of them all they see is teeth where they used to see their furry, brown, loveable Fido.

With preparation it need not be stressful and frightening. Fido can learn to be happy with baby and baby can be safe with Fido.  The Dogs and Storks program is a tremendous way to help new parents prepare for living safely with baby and Fido.  The main thing though is being pro-active.  Don’t leave the training and education until the last minute or after the baby is born (though certainly we can help after baby is born, but it will just be a busier time), start preparing as soon as you find out you are pregnant.

Some of the key things to work on are getting a solid sit and down with your dog, especially at a distance, as well as practicing loose leash walking and add in the stroller as well to practice with.

Start getting your dog used to you carrying a baby by carrying a baby sized doll, especially up against your shoulder, this way Fido will learn that sometimes you are carrying something which when carried in a certain way can sometimes look like you have two heads!

Also invest in a DVD or download audio files from the internet of baby sounds that you can start out playing softly in the background and slowly playing the audio louder, making sure the fun times, such as play with you or good treats or perhaps a food dispensing toys stuffed with your dog’s favourite foods come with those baby sounds.  In this way you are desensitizing your dog to the sounds and also if you add play and good treats when the audio is playing you are also making a good association with those sounds for your dog.

Supervising is paramount, your baby should never, ever be left unsupervised with your dog for any reason and remember to make absolutely sure that the baby’s bedroom door is closed when the baby is in there.  Dogs can make a mistake and most of the time that is exactly what the event is that involves a dog and a baby, just a mistake borne out of possibly excitement, fear, anxiety or stress but nonetheless still damaging, don’t take that risk, don’t place your wonderful family dog in the position of making a mistake.

Have a plan, what will Fido be doing when you are changing the baby, feeding the baby, when you want to take a shower?  The educated and supervised use of a tether at a safe distance while Fido is engaged in a yummy food filled Kong can make for a happy, stress free, safe feeding time for mom and baby that includes Fido.

Getting your dog used to his crate, so that it becomes a happy, safe place for him is another great strategy so that you can use the crate at times when you can’t supervise.  A word of caution here though, the dog should not be crated for long periods of time just to get him out of the way.  He still needs to be a part of the family and still needs mental stimulation and physical exercise.

Don’t be afraid to ask for help with your dog, just ensure that everyone knows your rules surrounding the dog so they can be consistent and make sure that they are on the same page with respect to humane training.  It is even more important for a dog to be treated humanely and with positive training when the animal will be living with children.

You can also engage the services of a dog walker or doggie daycare for some additional assistance in exercising and supervising your dog, but again, use caution with what type of methods are being used with respect to your dog and make sure you get references.  We can recommend some excellent daycares and dog walkers if you would like to look into either of these services.

We can help you set up your home, manage and train your dog and be prepared so that you, your new baby and your dog can live happily and safely.

Contact krose@shaw.ca to set up your Dogs’s and Storks private session or group seminar today.

Feb162012

Dogs and Babies

Tragically an infant was killed by the family dog in Airdrie last night.  There is no place here to lay blame, such a heavy price has already been paid for whatever the circumstances were that lead up to this tragedy, a child died, a family lost their child and in all likelyhood the dog will be euthanized.  I am not judging anyone in this event nor am I judging whatever the dog’s fate may be, I am just truly, deeply effected by this loss.

As of yet there are no details on what actually happened, but likely no one will ever know exactly what happened.  All we will know is something triggered the dog, the dog reacted and a child died.

From what has been said so far in the news, the family had other children and the dog was for all intents and purposes a great family pet.  To me that is what makes this situation even sadder. This was not a bad dog, a viscious animal, it was a family pet in a circumstance where it was not coping.  Dogs rarely move to a bite situation without a multitude of signals to us, but for the average family the dog’s signals are not easily read and all too often can be missed completely. A dog may show stress signals for months, even years with no resulting bites and/or other aggressive types of behaviour, it’s just that most people don’t see these signals or the signals such as a growl are corrected, so that the growl may go away but the underlying emotion has not changed, the dog is still highly uncomfortable in a situation.

I see this same scenario play out regularily, especially when it comes to dogs and children. The dog is providing signals over and over again to indicate stress and discomfort but nothing is done to change the situation for the dog.

I believe that tragedies like this can be prevented.  I believe that children and dogs can live together safely and happily.  We must learn about and understand how dogs communicate what they are feeling and work to help them out of difficult situations in addition to being pro-active about socializing our dogs right from puppyhood with respect to all aspects of the human world, in safe, consistent, humane way and preparing them for major life changes such as a new baby.  In addition we need to teach children how to be with dogs safely, to treat dogs with kindness and respect.  As adults it is our job to keep our children and dogs safe, to manage their environment and to supervise all interactions between children and dogs at all times.

There are many resources for new parents with respect to helping their dog be comfortable with a new baby and small children.

Downloadable Calming Signals Poster by Lili Chin and Dr. Sophia Yin http://doggiedrawings.net/post/842176625 This is an excellent resource for descriptions as to how your dog may look when he is experiencing various emotions.

Family Paws – Jen Shryock has developed the Dogs and Storks Program, a wonderful, comprehensive program that helps people prepare their dog for living with baby.  http://http://familypaws.com/ You can contact krose@shaw.ca for more information on this program in the Calgary area.

The Calgary Humane Society also offers a Old Pet, New Baby program http://www.calgaryhumane.ca/page.aspx?pid=309

DogGoneSafe is a wonderful resource for teaching children to be safe around dogs http://www.doggonesafe.com/

My deepest sympathy to this family.  May this never happen again.

Feb132012

A Dog and Her Person; The Human Canine Bond

Kia came into my life under duress, my duress that is.  It was not my decision to have a dog all those years ago and given my focus and attention on my career at the time, my new marriage and my goal to start a human family she did not fit into my life plans very well at all.  With little to no help from the person who had initially wanted her in our lives, I really struggled through her puppyhood and I did not understand at all why she did the things that she did.  In my humaness I was convinced she was purposely ruining my house and my life.

I took her to puppy class at a community centre in Calgary with a very experienced trainer named Mary.  Mary was, I believe on the edge of traditional and science based learning as far as training was concerned.  She encouraged the of food for reinforcing behaviours but also taught leash corrections, though thankfully the use of a choke or martingale collar was not on her agenda. Loose leash walking with Kia was a nightmare, I couldn’t stand being pulled everywhere and those leash corrections just did not work at all.  Now that I know better, I completely understand why they didn’t work, but back then I thought I was just failing to teach Kia to walk politely on leash and that Kia wasn’t very smart.

In any event, 2 things happened that changed things for Kia and I.  The first thing happened in puppy class.  I was complaining to Mary that I couldn’t get Kia to come when I called her, “what was wrong with her” I asked.  Mary very kindly said “Oh it’s not the dog dear” and then proceeded to show me how to make a recall easier for Kia to succeed at and more reinforcing when she did recall.

Seeing how Kia responded to Mary, how easy it was for Mary to encourage and reinforce a successful recall and how much Kia actually enjoyed working with Mary made me take a second look at my relationship with Kia and what I was contributing to it’s success or much of the time, it’s failure.

The second thing that happened is that my personal life took a devastating twist afterwhich, even more so than before, I was the sole caregiver for Kia.

As the days turned into weeks, months and then years Kia and I were inseparable.  She went with me everywhere, even to work. She would sit in the front seat of the car, with a seatbelt of course, when we went anywhere, completely enjoying the view and the ride.  She turned my mom, who was terrified of dogs her entire life as a result of a childhood dog attack, into a dedicated dog lover. Kia exuded joy, she was happy everywhere, all the time.  She loved to chase her ball, to walk in the park or on leash (and yes we did master that, through reinforcement of the loose leash behaviour, not punishment of the pulling behaviour).  I taught her to rollover, shake a paw, retrieve and to dance with me on cue.

I never saw her have even a little bit of a difference with another dog her entire life and she loved people, even little ones.

When I was sick or sad, Kia was with me, just there quietly being with me in a way that only a dog can be. When I was happy or excited, she was excited too and celebrated with me. She was for me a friend and a companion.   I could count on her and she could absolutely count on me.  With Kia there I never felt alone or lonely.  In a way I could never of imagined when I first met Kia, there was now a bond, a beautiful, wonderful, comfortable bond.

You would think that Kia was perfect, in that she never made a mistake, never did anything that I didn’t like, but you would be wrong.  Kia loved to bark at magpies and she was relentless about it, she really enjoyed “snacks” from the cat’s litter box and the toilet paper on the roll in the bathroom was never safe from Kia.  If I left a kitchen towel in reach or a sock anywhere to be found, she ate it.

These things made me crazy sometimes and yet still and for all there was indeed perfection in her doggyness.

When Kia was diagnosed with cancer of June 2008, it was devastating. There was absolutely no question that I was going to get her every available treatment, she was going to get well, right?  Two major surgeries and many rounds of chemo and radiation later she didn’t get well.  There were more tumours but the doctors didn’t know where they were.  That meant that they had to search to find them.  I know that Kia had no idea was was happening to her, so she couldn’t have been afraid of the treatments as I discussed our options with the medical team.  I also know that in spite of it all, she loved going to the clinic, goodness she even started to pull on her leash again in her excitement to get in the door every time we went there.  She loved her doctors and the vet tech, she basked in their affection and the treats that they gave her and I loved to watch her enjoying it.  She never showed the stress and anxiety that one would expect from most dogs going into a vet hospital, as long as I was with her.

But when it came time for her to go for her treatments and we had to be apart, she struggled, whined and cried.  There was a pivotal moment when she was going for a treatment and when she looked back at me struggling and afraid I knew that this was not where we were meant to be.  In that moment it was no longer if I could do more for her medically, but if I should.  And so we stopped, she never took that treatment, there were no more surgeries.

Kia only lived a few more months after that when in another pivotal moment I knew that it was time for her journey here with me, to end.  I miss her every single day. I mourn her loss deeply but I am so incredibly grateful to have known her, to have had this wonderful creature in my life. What a gift I was given in her friendship.  What a wonder, the human-canine bond.

Kia 13/02/09- I cried when you passed away. I still cry today. Although I loved you dearly, I couldn’t make you stay. A golden heart stopped beating, little paws at rest. The Gods broke my heart this day to prove to me They only take the best.  ♥ ♥

Feb062012

Off Leash Etiquette

I spoke a few articles back about pathway etiquette, today I’d like to address off leash parks thing we need to be aware of and teach our dogs in order to be safe in that environment.

Living in Calgary provides us with all the amenities of the city while still maintaining incredible access to green space and nature.  Many of these natural environments are places where people can take their dogs for some exercise and socialization with other dogs and people.

Many off leash parks are extremely busy at or shortly after the supper hour and on weekends, especially in the morning.  My advice first and foremost is avoid these areas at the peak times.  More often than not the number of dogs in the park far exceeds a safe number and the majority of the dogs are not being properly supervised and have either no training at all or have not had training in incrementally distracting environments in order to prepare the dog for appropriate responses in the highly distracting off leash park environment.  This is a recipe for disaster and I have many clients who took their “Lassie” into the off leash park and came out with “Cujo” due to a 20 second tragic interaction in the off leash park.

Choose instead times that are non peak hours and choose the lesser known parks.

Additionally, you absolutely must be supervising your dog at all times.  It is not appropriate to be deep in conversation or texting while your dog runs around terrorizing other park users. Be with your dog, interact with him, call him back to you and then reward him for coming to you by sending him back to play.

Ensure you have an excellent recall by practicing in incrementally increasing distractions and be highly rewarding to your dog when he recalls.  Behaviours that are reinforced in a positive manner, will be repeated.

Make sure your dog is getting DAILY physical and mental exercise, not just once a week at the off leash park.

Avoid bringing a toy with you, especially a ball, unless you are in an area where you will encounter very few, if any other dogs.  Even if your dog is great with sharing toys, the other dogs you meet may not be.

Unleash your dog immediately upon entering the park and preferrably before other dogs approach.  A dog on leash is very vulnerable, he has no flight option while on leash and he knows it.  This can be cause for leash aggression if the dogs feels he has no other option.  Using a punishing, leash correction for leash aggression is paramount to punishing your child harshy for being afraid of a stranger.  Do not walk your dog on leash in an off leash park, it is not fair to your dog on so many levels and can create issues that will be devastating. If you feel you need to have your dog on leash because he won’t come back when called, then the off leash park is not a reasonable option for you and your dog at this point in your dog’s life.  This is where the pathways on leash might be a better option for you.

For non doggie people, please don’t use a specifically designated off leash park for cycling and a play area for your children.  While all dogs should be under control and well behaved, they are still dogs and I find it so strange that we ask and expect more of dogs than we do of our children and of ourselves when it comes to controlled behaviour and good manners.  It is highly likely that you will be chased if you cycle through the off leash park because most people’s dogs while very well behaved are still dogs and so they will chase, it is instinctual and they are probably already in chase mode as they have been chasing other dogs in the park. To a dog chasing is chasing and it’s fun.  There are lots of other places for people to cycle and children to play, why use the off leash park?

Let’s be courteous to one another and our dogs as well as being responsible by training, supervising and managing our dogs as well as properly exercising them physically and mentally and for non dog owers by using other areas besides the designated off leash dog parks for pursuit of activities such as cycling and play for children and we can keep everyone safe and happy.

 

Jan302012

Leaving Your Dog Tethered at Sobey’s

The other day I saw a dog tethered outside Sobey’s.  That in and of itself upset me and I’ll tell you more about that in a moment.  The other issue was it was on a prong collar.  This is a device that is around the dog’s neck, with prongs in it that poke into the dog’s neck every time pressure is put on the collar, usually by the dog pulling.  It is intended to cause pain to the dog for pulling on the leash, thereby preventing the dog from pulling.  These devices (punishment) can work, sometimes on some dogs, however most of the time if a dog’s motivation to pull is strong enough then it will pull even though the pulling is causing pain not to mention injury to the dog’s neck and trachea (the choke collar will do the same thing). Mostly these collars do nothing to teach the dog not to pull and therefore the rest of the dog’s life it will need to wear the prong or choke collar in order to walk politely on leash and as mentioned above, for most dogs the motivation to pull is so great that they will pull anyway, so you end up with a dog who from puppyhood to the grave pulled on leash while wearing an inhumane device intended to punish it by inflicting pain for pulling on leash.  These are not tools that I choose to use I I believe that there are far better, more successful ways to teach a dog not to pull.

But I digress, this dog was tethered on a very short leash while wearing prong collar, so if it moved at all the prong’s dug into the dog’s neck.  The really sad thing is the owner I am absolutely sure, loves this dog very much and would if they thought about it, have felt quite bad about how they left this dog, even if they really believed in using the collar for avoiding pulling.

Aside from the collar though, this dog by being left unsupervised and tethered is left at the mercy of whoever walks by.  Most dogs left tethered, show anxiety, stress, separation distress, fear, they bark, howl and scratch.  In short they don’t like it, it is uncomfortable and stressful.  While on leash a dog has had the option of flight removed, their preferred method of dealing with things that they are fearful of, so the only option left is fight.  Imagine if you will, someone walking by with their dog, the other dog approaches the tethered dog, who in the vulnerable state of being tethered can’t get way.  The tethered dog feels unsafe, fearful and powerless and so with no other option he bites or snaps at the other dog.  This same scenario can be said for the unsuspecting adult or child who just wanted to pet the tethered dog.

Make no mistake about it, this feeling of fear, anxiety, stress can and does happen in almost every dog who is tethered. The most socialized, well balanced, behaviourally sound dog in every other circumstances, may absolutely feel the need to bite in the tethered scenaro.

Or maybe some unscrupulous person comes by and teases your dog (a great way to set your dog up for reactivity towards people), hurts your dog, unties your dog, feeds your dogs something he shouldn’t have.  The possibilities are endless, as are the reasons why you should not tether your dog, not to mention it does violate The City of Calgary Bylaw that states dogs will not be left tethered and unsupervised.

So what happened to the dog at Sobeys, well I waited for an hour for the owner to come back so I could politely talk to them about the situation, but no one came.  I asked Sobey’s to make an announcement to have the owner return to the dog, which they would not do.  I called The City of Calgary, who did send someone out, but the dog was gone by the time they got there.  I ultimately had to leave as I had my own dog coming out of surgery, so I left a very politely worded note with my contact information.  I did not hear from the person and really I didn’t expect to. However politely my note was worded, I am certain the person took offence because this is a tricky situation and an emotional one. So what I am doing for that dog is educating, providing information, answering questions and showing an alterative way of getting a lovely loose leash walk and that I will always do.

Jan162012

Tails On The Trails – Pathway Etiquette

Calgarians are privy to miles and miles of pathways and beautiful parks and many of us choose to use these areas to exercise our dogs.  This is a wonderful way to spend time in the outdoors and with your canine friend.  Sometimes however, dog owners come in conflict with non-dog owners who are also using the pathways.  Here are few tips to keep things positive for all path users:

Keep your dog leash, not longer than 2 metres, at all times when in an area not designated at offleash by The City of Calgary, even if he is very well behaved and will stick to you like glue.  You just never know when that crafty rabbit, or very enticing person will be a distraction for your dog.

This should go without saying, but please pick up after your dog and more than that, after picking up please deposit your packages in the appropriate recepticles.  I know that most people have full intention of picking up their full bags on the way back, but I also know that many people simply forget and so the bags sit there until another good citizen picks them up or The City of Calgary employees, or worse they break open and cause a mess.

When other people with or without children, strollers and/or dogs are approaching you, a great idea is to move off of the path in a curved motion, let them go have a sniff as you come off the path or move off of the path and have your dog sit and focus on you, but remember to reward them for doing this.  It’s pretty hard to focus on one person when all this other fun stuff and distraction is happening, so reward your dog for doing it.  I recommend this because some people a very uncomfortable with dogs and so to be kind to them moving away is a good idea.  They may also in their discomfort, tense up or become vocal unintentionally, causing your dog to be uncomfortable and perhaps acting in a way he normally would not have done, had the person not tensed up.

Additionally, people with small children probably don’t want a strange dog poking it’s nose into their strollers.

Lastly, moving off of the path when approaching another dog especially in a curve, creates the more natural way of dogs approaching one another, rather than straight on.  This will make both dogs more comfortable and really dogs do not need to be meeting one another on leash in any event.  It is much better that they meet off leash, in play dates, daycares or even in off leash parks at non busy times.

In the City of Calgary, dogs must not be left tethered while unattended.  Many people leave their dogs tethered outside stores while they run in to do some quick shopping. This dangerous for your dog and for people who may approach your dog.  Even friendly, well socialized dogs, when left alone and tethered can quickly become anxious and fearful, a perfect storm for a potential bite.  Your dog could get loose and run off.  These are just a few reasons why it is not a good idea to tether, but again, it is also in violation of City Bylaws.

Have fun on the pathways, enjoy our beautiful city, but be safe, be aware, take care of your dog and look out for the safety and comfort of other path users.

Jan092012

A Good Reason to Wait

As a part of basic doggie manners I teach all my clients doggie and human the
importance of the Life Is Infinitely Rewarding program.

On this program the dog sits (or whatever other behaviour you like, I recommend asking for a variety of behaviours, not just the same one over and over again )in exchange for a reward, resource, valuable article whatever you want to call it.  I look that this as being the dog saying “please” for his dinner, to go outside, to get his leash on, for a cookie, to play a game like retrieve or tug.  It’s just polite doggie manners basically and it is a wonderful way to teach arousal control and patience, not to mention safety for both people and dogs.  I do not look at this as a matter of leadership, I look at it as polite behaviours in my dogs.  They do the behaviour and they are paid with the reinforcement of what they find to be valuable, the cookie, dinner, access to outdoors.

One of the most valuable things to teach a dog within the Life Is Infinitely Rewarding program is to “Wait” at an open door until released by a verbal cue.

This from a politeness point of view alone should be enough to want to teach it, but let me make it a little more enticing for you.  How about safety, yours
and the dogs’?

I have four dogs and going for a walk it a highly valued life reward for them (as it is for most dogs but with four, large canine pals, well that’s 16 legs, plus mine and a combined weight at the door of over 300 lbs not including mine, wanting to get out into the great beyond).  So it’s dangerous for me in a
very big way.

My front door leads right into our street (doesn’t yours), which means that any dogs who plough past me through the door will go right out onto the road
(albeit not a busy one, but it only takes one car right).  So it’s dangerous for the dogs.

To teach the “Wait”, leash your dog (one at a time if you have more than one dog, kennel the other dogs) and go to the door.  Saying nothing at all, wait for your dog to default to a sit, all you need to do is wait which will be difficult for you as being human we just love to talk, but don’t, just be silent and wait. Most dogs have learned at a very early age that sitting gets them access to things that they want, so the majority of dogs will default to a sit, if you just say nothing.  The reason that I like the dog to actually defaulting to a sit, instead of being told what to do all the time, is the dog begins to actually think and then choose to perform behaviours and when this happens the learning accelerates.

When the dog sits (ignore any and all other behaviour) move your hand to the door knob, your dog will likely get up, so take your hand away from the door knob and again wait for his sit.

When your dog sits, your hand goes to the door knob, remove your hand every time the dog breaks his sit.  Once you are able to put your hand on the knob, trying opening the door a crack.  Your dog will probably get up again from sitting, close the door and wait for the sit again.

Repeat over and over again, opening the door only a crack at first so you can easily close it if the dog breaks the sit and you won’t catch Fido’s nose or paw in the door.

The object is to get the door all the way open and then use your release cue to allow the dog out of the sit and through the door way.

Your release cue is the cue/phrase that you use to let your dog know he is back on his own time.  For example, I ask my dog for a sit, she sits, I reinforce her for the sit and then I release her from her sit by saying All Done.  My guys have all been taught a formal stay but they also know that when asked for a sit or lay down, they stay in the requested position until I say “all done”.  Your cue could be “all done”, “ok”, “that’ll do” or “banana cream pie”, dogs don’t speak English so you can use what you like as a release cue, just make sure you say it and say it consistently.

It doesn’t matter to your dog or your relationship with your dog, if you go through the door first, the dog does or you go through together, what matters, is that the dog waits to go through the door until you give the release cue.

Now you and your dog’s are safe, plus they are well mannered and calm.

Dec222011

Pack Theory- Fact or Fiction by Taryn Blyth

This is probably one of the best articles on Pack Theory that I have read and wanted to share it with you.

http://www.tarynblyth.co.za/articles/pack-theory-fact-or-fiction/

Nov302011

The Puppies Are Here…Part 5

Loose leash walking -

Walking puppies can be a challenge but again some initial effort at the beginning will bring results in spades. My first recommendation is a harness with 2 points of contact. This takes the pressure off of puppy’s developing neck bones and muscles which are easily damaged. I recommend harnesses for adult dogs as well for physical safety in avoiding damage to the neck resulting from a sudden lunge or pull by the dog and also to avoid a negative association when their air is cut off as they pull towards and unfamiliar dog, person or object. This is not to say that you can’t use a buckle collar and leash, just be careful. Never, ever jerk or pop the leash for any reason, ever.

I also avoid martingale collars, choke collars and absolutely pinch collars.  They are needless and harmful both physically to the dog and to your relationship with your dog.  Additionally a dog can learn to pull into anything, equipment (like the harness) is useful for managing but ultimately you need to teach your dog to walk politely on leash.

Fill your pocket full of soft, small, stinky treats and with your puppy on a harness with two points of contact and off you go. Gently talk to your puppy while walking, let him sniff (see the Sniffing article for training the sniff as a reward) and every time he even glances at you say “yes” and drop one
of your treats at your feet. Then reward again when puppy comes back to you to get the treat.

I know what you’re thinking, the puppy is coming back only to get the treat and you’re right, but what we are doing is 1) getting your pup’s attention 2) showing him that being near you is a good thing, very rewarding and remember behaviour that is reinforced is repeated.  Remember you are competing with a highly rewarding environment, you need to ensure that it is even more rewarding to be with you.

Your puppy will now start to be very interested in being near you.  Now start rewarding him every step (this is very high rate of reinforcement, every single step, drop a treat at your feet).  After 20 steps, drop every 2-3 step.  After 20 more steps, drop the food every 5-7 steps.  Occassionally when you see an obvious place that you know your pup will want to sniff (ie. the sign post or fire hydrant) run him towards the location and say Go Sniff.  You are using a functional reward, sniffing, to reinforce the behaviour of being with you.

Go back and forth between dropping treats and Go Sniff every 7-10 steps.  You can also incorporate the use of a tug toy or ball to reward a certain number of steps of his walking beside you, intermittently with the food and Go Sniff.  Also be variable with the use of your reinforcements, ie. sometimes you will reward 3 steps, sometimes 10, sometimes 5 and so on.   If you are absolutely consistent with this technique your puppy will stay near you and not pull, he will be there because you have worked hard to create a wonderful, positive environment around you and a trusting relationship with your puppy and he wants to be near you.
As time goes on you will be able to reinforce the loose leash walking on a lower rate of reinforcement, however don’t stop reinforcing cold turkey and don’t get into the habit of never reinforcing. There is always time for a Go Sniff, or a quick game of tug, or butt scratch on a walk.  Be especially aware of this as your pup becomes an adolescent.  This is often a challenging time for dogs and their people and it is not the time to take away all reinforcements for good behaviour, just remember, reinforce the behaviours that you want to see repeated.

If at any point your puppy actually pulls on the leash and he will, stop, just stop walking and stand there. Do not pop or jerk the leash, do not say anything to puppy, just stop and be silent. When he looks back to you, say “yes” and drop those treats at your feet and even perhaps giving a friendly pet to your puppy and then continue to walk. You’ve just rewarded your puppy verbally, physically with the treat and affection and then what he wanted most, to continue with the walk and all because he simply came back to you. Repeat this over and over and over again.

My last word today is on Jumping Up.  Dogs jump up and generally we don’t like it.  They do it to get attention inititally and then they do it because they have been reinforced for it even if it is by accident. First and foremost, do NOT knee your dog in the chest, even gently. You may unintentionally injure your dog physicall and you will absolutely injure your relationship with your dog.  Lastly you may create a dog who having been kneed in the chest for jumping, now no longer jumps but is fearful and or aggressive towards humans.  This does not bode well for the dog.

So have every single person they meet use the “Off” technique without fail.  If even one person pets your dog while he is jumping up, your dog
will have been rewarded for that behaviour and he will repeat it.  The dog’s mentality on the subject is “hey it worked once, could work
again”.

“Off” works like this:

Person leans down to pet, puppy starts to jump, person immediately stands straight up and turns away from puppy.  When when puppy’s feet are back on the floor the person can again attempt to pet the dog.  Practice this over and over again and do not let anyone who is not willing to help you teach this behaviour to your dog, pet the dog.  They are not doing you any favours and are doing you a real disservice.

For additional help to make your puppy successful, especially if they are persistent with the jumping up, is to leash puppy before your guests come to
the door and stand on the leash.  It should not be choking puppy or pulling puppy to the floor, it should only be preventing him from jumping.  When the guests come in they can pet puppy with his four feet on the floor quite simply because he physically can’t jump up.  You can also keep a small bowl of treats at the door (where puppy can’t help himself) so that guests can also reward with a treat in addition to petting while four paws
are on the floor.

Another option is for the person petting the dog to slide a thumb down through the collar while petting the dog’s chest with the fingers, again preventing puppy from jumping while being petted.

Another technique is the Friendly Stranger.  You will need a helper, the “friendly stranger” to assist you.  Put your pup on leash and hold on to it.  Do not use leash corrections or pull on your pup’s leash at all, you simply hold onto it, you are an anchor only.  The other person approaches and as soon as pup starts to jump, they turn and walk away, returning again when the dog has four feet on the floor, repeating over and over again until the person can get to the puppy with the pup’s feet still remaining on the floor.  At this point, the person can start to attempt to pet the dog, but only if they are not jumping.  As soon as they begin the jumping behaviour the person walks away immediately. This can be fast and effective, but be consistent and be persistent.  The best part of the Friendly Stranger is the other person does all the training, you the pup’s person, you just stand there and hold the leash.

Nov252011

He Justs Wants to Say Hi – a wonderful article by Suzanne Clothier

http://www.flyingdogpress.com/content/view/42/97/